12.28.08
TFF Reviews the Michelin Guide Hong Kong and Macau
Ever since Michelin announced they were adding Hong Kong and Macau (as a unit) to their expanding list of restaurant-reviewed cities, the burning question was “what will the Frenchies make of Cantonese food?” The answer? Quite mixed. They have a lot of homework to do before the next edition. From the day the guide was published, they definitely got mouths flapping debating the guide. But they also seriously undermined their credibility by doling out stars to several question mark eateries. Here’s the complete list of starred restaurants:
Three Stars:
- Lung King Heen
- Robuchon a Galera
Two Stars:
- Amber
- Bo Innovation
- Caprice
- L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon
- Shang Palace
- Summer Palace
- T’ang Court
- Tim’s Kitchen
One Star:
- Fook Lam Moon (Wan Chai)
- Forum
- Hutong (What the F? Seriously. What the F.)
- Lei Garden (IFC) (Again, what the F?)
- Lei Garden (TST) (Ditto)
- Ming Court
- Petrus
- Pierre
- Regal Palace
- Shanghai Garden (I’m not going to pull punches. Flat out bribe.)
- The Golden Leaf
- The Square (I’m in between either “What the F” or “Flat out bribe.”)
- Tim’s Kitchen
- Yung Kee
- Imperial Court
- The Eight
- Tung Yee Heen
- Ying
Points for:
- Bilingual – Nice to see them at least make the effort of having the guide in both English and Chinese.
- No stars for Nobu and Spoon. They avoided giving recognition to two of the most over-hyped places (both basically high-end chains) that serve very mediocre food. Good on Michelin.
Points against:
- One star each for Hutong and The Square. Are they mad? Did money change hands?
- Not enough Japanese restaurants. Sushi Hiro doesn’t even get mentioned?
- Serious mis-steps with the Bib Gourmand. This was where the Michelin Guide should have really shined in Hong Kong. Hong Kong is a veritable treasure trove of cheap no-frills places that serve outstanding eats. And they flag up Cafe Siam? Lian at IFC? That place is gar-bage. Crystal Jade? 1/5 Nuevo on Star Street? I’m sorry, but not even close. This is where the criticism of no (or not enough) Chinese judges is truly vindicated. Chinese judges would’ve been much more on-the-ball with finding better spots to highlight with the Bib Gourmand than the chain restaurants at high end malls that got their plaudits. Where’s Lan Fong Yuen for milk tea and other Cantonese diner specialities? No place serves Bib Gourmand worthy roast meats? No hidden treasures at any of the da pai dangs at the wet markets?
If the point of a guide like Michelin is to get people talking and debating where to eat and who serves the best this and that, then mission accomplished. If the point was to become a guide locals use and respect, well, try again next year.
